The information presented here is in no way the end all, be all of bow tuning.  There are many web sites and articles available for the finer points of bow tuning.  With the information offered here, you should be able to obtain good results with good arrow flight.  We will mainly be discussing how to tune for centershot, since that is what the Slick Shot best controls.  Nock point tuning is affected by rest alignment, nock placement, etc.  A quick web search will find plenty of How To information on how to find the best position for you nock/D-loop.  How far you want to go from here is up to the individual.

 

Bow tuning is fairly simple and straight forward.  There are some initial equipment set up steps needed to be taken first.

 

1.  Proper draw length -       having your bow set to your draw length is key to shooting well and comfortably.

                                                       The image to the right shows a draw length where the nock of the arrow is back

                                                       to the shooter's eye. His head is straight, not tipping back (too long a draw) and

                                                       not tipping forward (too short a draw). With a proper draw length, your

                                                       shoulders will align at full draw and look like the image to the left.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

​2.  Proper draw weight - this is more of a personal preference and depends on what type of archery you are shooting.  However, you never want to be over bowed since you can physically hurt yourself and possibly others if your draw sequence is not under control.  One easy way to check if you can your draw weight is to sit down in a chair, raise your feet off the floor and draw your bow.  If you can't, it may be better to turn weight down a bit.

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3.  Nock/D loop position - as a good starting point, place your nock position at 1/16" above level.  Your bow's manual may have what they consider, a good position to place your nock.  But remember, these are only starting points.

 

4.  Rest set up - There are two different parts to setting up your rest:  the vertical and horizontal positions.

         

          Vertical Positioning - this is the easiest of the two to deal with.  Place an arrow on the string (your nock position has been set at this

          point) and adjust your rest until the center of your arrow runs through the center of the rest's mounting hole.  If you have a fixed rest,

          like a Whisker Biscuit, this is straight forward.  If you have a drop away rest, you will need to lock it in place or hold it up so you can see

          where your arrow shaft is at full draw.

         

          Horizontal Positioning - there are many ways to set the rest for centershot.  There are tools available to make this adjustment,

          however if you don't have one, try one or all of the following, to get started.  Nock an arrow on the string and then: 

          a.  Look at the grip from the string side of the bow.  Line the string up with the center of the bow grip and see where your arrow is in

               relation to the string.  It should be centered/in line with the string. 

          b.  Place your bow on your foot and look down from the top limb/cam.  Align the limb butts with your stabilizer.  Some bows don't align

               the limbs with the stabilizer.  If not, just align the limb butts.  Your arrow should run down the middle of your stabilizer or stay

               parallel to it. 

          c.  Tape another arrow or hold it solid against the riser of your bow, just above the rest.  The two arrows should run parallel to each

               other, when looking at them from above.

 

5.  Target Set Up - You will have to set a vertical line on your target.  I use a level and set it so it is plumb on the target, then draw a line with a wide magic marker.  You can also use kite string and a plumb weight.  The best results will occur if your target can be up high enough to be close to your shoulder level.

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With all of these settings made, you are ready to start shooting and tuning your bow.  I have had great luck with the customers in my shop using the Walk Back tuning method.  Using this tuning method, we shoot at 6 feet and 15 yards.  Then back again at 6 feet and then again at 20 yards.  If you have the room, you can then fine tune at 20 yards then back at 40 yards.

 

A.  First shot sequence - Starting up close at 6 feet, aim and fire at the vertical line on the target.  At this 6 foot distance, if you can shoot at shoulder height, pay attention to how your arrow is entering the target.  If you are confident of your D-loop location and the nock end of the arrow is higher then the tip end, raise your arrow rest 1/16" and see if it straightens out.  If so, move on.  If not (and you are sure the arrow goes through the center of the rest mounting hole) you should lower your D-loop.  The opposite will need to happen if the nock end of the arrow is lower then the tip end.  Continue making adjustments until the arrow straightens out.  Sight in your bow using the sight gang adjustments until you hit the line.  Don't worry about making any up/down adjustments in the sight at this time.  Only make left/right adjustments until you hit the line.  Once you have accomplished this and can hit the line consistently, move back to 15 yards. 

 

B.  Second shot sequence - Having moved back to 15 yards, aim once again at the line on your target, if you can see it.  If you can't see the line, make it thicker or draw a circle/square as small as you can still see.  If your arrow hits the line/shape, yee-ha !!  If not, move your rest to bring it back to the line.  For example, if your arrow hits left, tweak your REST to the right... only 1/16" at a time. Continue making these

adjustments until your are hitting the line on the target.  At this distance, you can make adjustments to your sight ONLY to make sure you are hitting close up/down.  Left/right adjustments are made with your REST.  The 1/16" changes might be too much at times, adjust accordingly.

 

Go back to 6 feet and double check your sight.  If you are still on and rest adjustments of 1/32" or so is not helping, now adjust your sight.  This should not take much to get you in to center.  If you have the distance to shoot, now go back to 40 yards.  Here you will tweak your rest even more for perfect center shot.  At this point, rest adjustments of 1/32" or less will be needed.  Again, frustration levels and diminishing returns of rest movement may dictate a sight adjustment vs a rest adjustment.